Answering my own question a half year later.
There were basically two possible alternatives: apollo-link-rest and apollo-bridge-link.
I have analyzed both of them, tried to use both of them, and decided to go with apollo-bridge-link despite it's not promoted by Apollo team and it had incomparably fewer downloads and likes than apollo-link-rest. And I can say it was the right decision. I had no difficulties with it.
Here is a good article on apollo-bridge-link written by its creator and a demo app.
You'll have to create a graphql schema and resolvers to make apollo-bridge-link work. Just like you would do this on the graphql server. And later, if you decide to build a graphql server, it will be quite easy to reuse this schema and resolvers on the server. What I can't say about apollo-link-rest.
Their approach is to avoid using schema to make things simple. But, on the other hand, you will have to write type patchers. Take a look at example in test suite to see how complex it can become in the real world app.