Unfortunately, to get that level of information from the bitstream you have to decode every macroblock, there's no quick option, like there would be for getting information from the slice header.
One option is to use the h.264 reference software and turn on the verbose debug output and/or add your own printf's where needed, but this is also a large code base to navigate:
http://iphome.hhi.de/suehring/tml/
(You can also use ffmpeg and add output where needed too as you said, but it would take some understanding of that code base too)
There are graphical tools for analyzing video bitstreams which will show you this type of information on a per-macroblock basis, many are expensive, but sometimes there are free trial versions available.